Sunday, April 18, 2010

BurdaStyle Ute: Victory from the Jaws of Defeat!

Here's my finished blouse based on BurdaStyle Ute.  It's perfect for the spring weather we've been having, and I'm so pleased with how it came out!

I love this fabric--it's a printed cotton voile from Haberman's, and I immediately envisioned it as a blouse.  I liked the idea of using Ute, but my first attempt was thoroughly disheartening.  I'm still somewhat unsure about my size in Burda magazine and BurdaStyle patterns; since I was between the 44 and the 46 by my measurements, I cut the 46.  I constructed the whole bodice with french seams before I test-fitted it and discovered it was huge on me!

To save the project, I had to rip out all those french seams, which was really time-consuming.  After pressing my pieces flat, I cut the pattern down to a 42 and laid it over the original pieces, making sure the fabric stayed on the straight grain.  I was able to re-cut all the pieces except the collar and the side front from my original pieces, and bought another yard of material to use for the new pieces.

I used several new techniques in making this blouse.  I'm most pleased with the bias binding on the collar, which yielded a really slick, professional finish.  I also used french seams on the armholes for the first time.  I wasn't even sure it would be possible, but it turned out to be almost easier than easing them in with a 5/8-inch seam allowance.  I think fabric has a lot to do with this--my voile was very light-weight and fluid, which made it much easier to make my seams smooth and even.

I found great vintage buttons for this project in Montreal, at Plazatex fabrics in Mont Royal.  They were a perfect match for the green in the print, and I think they add to the funky-girl-scout aesthetic of the Ute pattern.  As you can see, I'm also sporting my new "made by J" labels.  (If you're looking for twill tape labels, I heartily recommend Priya Creations on Etsy.  She was prompt and accommodating, and I got exactly what I wanted.)

With this project, I feel like I snatched victory from the jaws of defeat.  I was so disappointed with my first attempt, and I wasn't sure I'd be able--or willing--to salvage it.  But I think the finished product is among my best in terms of quality, and it fits seamlessly into my summer wardrobe.  I'll be wearing it tomorrow!

1 comment:

  1. Hi. I just found your blog through BurdaStyle. Thanks so much for posting both attempts at this blouse. I'm a 46/48 on the Burda size chart, but I find I usually have to cut a 44, so you're not the only one!

    Your blouse looks amazing, and your sewing is great. Thanks!