Another Ute

I've been pretty unproductive with my sewing over the last two weeks, due in part welcome visits from family--my father and mother-in-law, on consecutive weekends--and in part to insanely hot weather, which has left me sweating so profusely that I hesitate to touch anything in our apartment, let alone fabric.

Today promises a break in the weather, and a long, lonely evening of uninterupted sewing time, so hopefully I'll be getting my mojo back soon.  But in the meantime, I wanted to write up an older project, a paisley version of the BurdaStyle Ute blouse.

I got off to a rough start with my first Ute when I cut and sewed the wrong size, but now that I've got the sizing issue figured out, I'm loving the pattern, which is actually really versatile.

For this version, I used paisley cotton voile left over from my brunch dress.  Unlined, the blouse is semi-sheer, so I need to wear it over a camisole, but I actually like that look for summer quite a bit.

For this second Ute, I once again shortened the hem and the sleeves, and omitted the cuffs.  I also re-drafted the peter-pan collar, making the shape less extreme in the front.  I like the original collar, but I also the more subtle version I drafted, which I think works better with the busy fabric on this project.

I love the collar and placket construction on this blouse, which I think yield a nicely finished result.  But on this one, I made a bit of a goof: despite my careful measuring and marking, I managed to space my buttons and buttonholes unevenly.  If you look carefully, the top two buttons are closer together than the others!  By the time I realized my mistake, I had already cut the buttonholes, so I had no choice but to wear it the way it was.  Because of the location of the mistake (at the top of the placket) and the pattern of the fabric, I think it's hardly noticeable, and it's not stopped me from wearing the blouse a bunch over the last few weeks.

I've also incorporated this blouse into my Up North Mini-Wardrobe plan.  I love how it looks paired with my denim pencil skirt, as pictured here.  And I think it will also work well with the ivory Beignet-inspired skirt I'm currently working on--more about that project soon!

"Up North" Mini-Wardrobe

To celebrate our first anniversary (woot!), the Mr. and I are planning a trip "up North" in August.  If you've never been there, northern Michigan might not sound that appealing, but believe me, its stunningly beautiful at this time of year.

Here's where we'll be staying, a beautiful "contemporary" bed and breakfast in the Traverse City area.  If it's anything like the pictures, we're in for a real treat!

With cool breezes, panoramic vistas, and sunset sails in mind, I can't resist the temptation to put together an "up North" mini-wardrobe for the trip.  I'm not alone in this impulse--Cidell is also at work on a travel wardrobe, although from the sound of it hers will be much more practical than mine.  But even if my wardrobe, as a whole, is a bit whimsical, I'm hoping that the individual pieces--pencil skirts and lightweight tops--will actually be pretty versatile.

Here are the pieces I have planned:

• a "beignet"-inspired skirt in ivory cotton sateen
• a ruffled blouse, Burda 4-2010 #105, in a lightweight magenta silk shirting
• a summer jacket, also in ivory sateen, perhaps Burda 3-2010 #102
• a denim pencil skirt, which I will draft, with fabric from my stash
• a blue paisley Ute blouse (already completed)
• the green, pleat-front dress, Butterick 5455 (already completed)
• possibly, as the coup-de-grace, the Amy Butler weekend bag, in Ikea home dec fabric from my stash

This collection doesn't, strictly speaking, follow the rules for a wardrobe contest--although every top will go with every bottom, not all the pieces match one another, and I'm not at all sure how the jacket will work with any of the tops, since I don't have anything like it in my closet right now.  But I think, on the whole, the wardrobe has a consistent feel to it, even if it's not completely mix-and-matchable.

As of right now, I have two pieces already completed: the paisley Ute (which I'll photograph and post about soon) and the green dress.  I've got the white skirt drafted, muslined, and partially cut out.  And I'm planning to sew up the jean skirt for PR's knockoff contest.  So I'm well on my way!

Made by J from Head to Toe

Here I am on my way to a party/BBQ this past weekend, dressed entirely, and inadvertently, in Made by J clothes.  I'm rocking my BurdaStyle Ute blouse and my Schnittvision jeans.  (The shoes are navy patent peep-toe wedges from Target--too cute!)

Hopefully, as I keep sewing, this will happen more and more!

Liberty blouse--a prescient design

Liberty of London fabric has been pretty visible these days, what with the recent release of Target's line of Liberty stuff. I admit, I bought one or two of my own Liberty for Target items--a top for myself,  and a shirt for the Mister--the price was too good to pass up. But it also got me inspired to plan a sewing project with real Liberty cotton lawn, which is worlds away from the polyester used in much of Target's line.

When the Selfish Seamstress posted about the new Burda May preview, I couldn't help but notice this top:

Looks familiar, I thought. Well, it should. I own this fabric in a slightly different (I think better) color. I bought it from Emma One Sock a few weeks ago and it's still available, if anyone else is interested.

What had I planned to sew with this lovely, summery stuff? A blouse, of course! I plan to copy an RTW blouse that I love. It has small pleats all along the front and back neckline, but is still nicely fitted through the waist. I'm not sure whether I'll include a ribbon waistband, like the original, or whether I prefer a more pared-down look.

This is, of course, a drafting project, so it will have to wait 'till I've finished the dresses for the wedding I'm attending in May. (Yes, dresses, plural, because of course I need a paisley cotton sundress to wear to the ladies-only pre-wedding brunch!)  And I can't draft anything till my new pattern paper gets here. But I admit, I'm gratified to see that my fabric choice for a summer blouse wasn't way off base.

BurdaStyle Ute: Victory from the Jaws of Defeat!

Here's my finished blouse based on BurdaStyle Ute.  It's perfect for the spring weather we've been having, and I'm so pleased with how it came out!

I love this fabric--it's a printed cotton voile from Haberman's, and I immediately envisioned it as a blouse.  I liked the idea of using Ute, but my first attempt was thoroughly disheartening.  I'm still somewhat unsure about my size in Burda magazine and BurdaStyle patterns; since I was between the 44 and the 46 by my measurements, I cut the 46.  I constructed the whole bodice with french seams before I test-fitted it and discovered it was huge on me!

To save the project, I had to rip out all those french seams, which was really time-consuming.  After pressing my pieces flat, I cut the pattern down to a 42 and laid it over the original pieces, making sure the fabric stayed on the straight grain.  I was able to re-cut all the pieces except the collar and the side front from my original pieces, and bought another yard of material to use for the new pieces.

I used several new techniques in making this blouse.  I'm most pleased with the bias binding on the collar, which yielded a really slick, professional finish.  I also used french seams on the armholes for the first time.  I wasn't even sure it would be possible, but it turned out to be almost easier than easing them in with a 5/8-inch seam allowance.  I think fabric has a lot to do with this--my voile was very light-weight and fluid, which made it much easier to make my seams smooth and even.

I found great vintage buttons for this project in Montreal, at Plazatex fabrics in Mont Royal.  They were a perfect match for the green in the print, and I think they add to the funky-girl-scout aesthetic of the Ute pattern.  As you can see, I'm also sporting my new "made by J" labels.  (If you're looking for twill tape labels, I heartily recommend Priya Creations on Etsy.  She was prompt and accommodating, and I got exactly what I wanted.)

With this project, I feel like I snatched victory from the jaws of defeat.  I was so disappointed with my first attempt, and I wasn't sure I'd be able--or willing--to salvage it.  But I think the finished product is among my best in terms of quality, and it fits seamlessly into my summer wardrobe.  I'll be wearing it tomorrow!

Projects in a holding pattern

It's April (almost!), which means that the end of the semester is coming soon, and school is getting ready to kick me in the [part of the body that would hurt when kicked]. But I've still been making uneven progress on several projects. Here's an overview:

Jeans

The jeans look great. I've done everything but finishing the waistband, and I've got my rivets, tack buttons, and belt loops ready to go. But I'm waiting for my new "made by J" sewing labels to arrive so I can sew one onto the waistband facing before topstitching it down. These jeans are an accomplishment for me, and I can't resist tooting my own horn a bit, even if no one else ever sees it. Currently, the post office is holding my labels hostage (don't get me started on the post office!), but I hope to have them in hand by the end of the day today. In the meantime, I've been reading all the posts about rivets on the Pattern Review jeans sew-along to educate myself about what lies ahead.

I plan to do a full write-up with better pictures once I get my jeans done, but here are some quick snapshots to tide you over. Sorry for the poor quality--my "resident photographer" had to study for an exam this morning!







Wedding-Guest Dress

Many months ago, I had this idea for a dress to wear to a family wedding in May. Since then, I've changed my mind several times, but I've finally decided on this design, which will be more versatile:

The original dress is sold out on Modcloth, and the pictures are no longer on the site. I'm planning to make my version very similar to this one, with a few minor adjustments: I've made the curve of the raised waistline more gradual at the center front, and I've increased the overlap of the surplice top so it will be less cleavage-tastical. (Several of the reviews mentioned needing double-sided tape--not the look I'm after for a family wedding!). I'm making it out of navy polyester charmeuse, same as the original. Why mess with a good thing?

I started drafting this dress over the weekend, and I got the front mostly done when I ran out of pattern paper. Look at this skirt pattern! This is me trying desperately to use my last scraps of paper to stabilize my pattern, which was held together only by delicate paper hinges. It looks like Frankenstein's monster!


I scored a little more paper on Monday, hopefully enough to finish the project. But I definitely need to find a more reliable paper supply.

Cotton Print Blouse

Stymied in my attempts to work on my jeans and my dress, I started in on another project in my queue--a cute cotton print blouse. I bought this cotton voile months ago, but now it's finally warm enough to think seriously about spring blouses.


I debated, and finally decided on BurdaStyle Ute:


I opted for version A, with the peter pan collar, omitting the crazy cuffs. But I also like B, with the tie collar, and I've got my eyes on it for a subsequent project.

Simple enough, right? Wrong! First of all, my computer pitched a giant fit when I tried to print the pdf file--I've never had this much trouble with a print-at-home pattern before! I had to download Acrobat to make it work.

Now, I know, a sensible person would've done a muslin of a new pattern, even if the measurements for a given size matched her body perfectly. Failing that, a sensible person would have at least basted it together to test fit before sewing time-consuming french seams. Did I do any of these sensible things? Of course not! I forged right ahead. And look at the results:


It's huge! It looks like a house dress! I know the pattern is supposed to be a slightly relaxed fit, but this is not what I was after. I think I need to take out all my beautiful french seams, press the pieces, and re-cut them 2 sizes smaller. Some pieces, like the center front and the collar, I'll have to cut again, but I'm planning on fudging the others. I bought another yard of fabric, but I still have to wash it and dry it before I can do anything else.

I'm convinced I can salvage the project, and I still love the concept, but I admit I'm a bit discouraged. I'm planning to set this project aside for a bit and wait for a second wind. It's not like I won't have enough to work on in the meantime!